The first bite of a freshly fried arancini is a study in contrasts: the craggy, golden-brown crust shatters under your teeth, giving way to a dense, creamy interior of rice that’s been kissed by tomato and studded with sweet peas. Then, just as you think you’ve reached the heart of the matter, your fork hits a pocket of slow-cooked ragu—rich, beefy, and laced with the kind of depth that only hours of simmering can achieve. This isn’t just a snack; it’s a monument to peasant ingenuity, a carb-loaded cannonball that fueled Sicilian laborers for centuries. On the other end of the spectrum, a single plump pillow of lobster ravioli, bathed in a garlic-cream sauce bright with lemon, offers a different kind of luxury—one that’s delicate, refined, and whispers of the sea. This journey through New York’s cheapest and most expensive Italian foods isn’t just about price tags; it’s about the soul of a dish, the hands that shape it, and the traditions that keep it alive.
The Dish
At the heart of this culinary contrast are two iconic Italian creations: arancini and ravioli. Arancini, which translates to “little oranges” in Italian, are Sicilian rice balls that originated as a resourceful way to use leftover risotto. They’re a staple of street food in Palermo, often eaten for breakfast by workers who needed a meal that could withstand a 12-hour shift. The version featured here, from Chef Joe at Mesoluma Pizza in the Bronx, is a one-pound monster stuffed with beef ragu, peas, and cheese, then deep-fried to a crisp. It’s a dish that demands commitment—not just to eat, but to make. The labor involved is immense: constant stirring of the risotto, careful shaping, and precise frying. This is food with history, a taste of southern Italy’s poverty and resilience.
On the flip side, Borgatti’s lobster ravioli represents the pinnacle of fresh pasta craftsmanship. This family-run shop on Arthur Avenue has been making ravioli since 1935, using a recipe passed down from Italian immigrants. The lobster ravioli, at $38 per box, is their most expensive offering. It’s a dish that celebrates the luxury of fresh, seasonal ingredients—lobster meat blended with ricotta, eggs, and Parmesan, encased in a thin, tender egg dough. Unlike the arancini, which is a standalone meal, this ravioli is a canvas for a simple yet elegant sauce: butter, garlic, white wine, cream, and a squeeze of lemon. The contrast between these two dishes isn’t just about cost; it’s about philosophy. Arancini is about abundance and utility; ravioli is about precision and indulgence.
The Technique
What makes a great arancini? It starts with the rice. Chef Joe uses a traditional risotto method: sautéing onions in oil, adding tomato paste for a vibrant base, then stirring in rice and a secret seasoning until the grains are cooked but still al dente. The key here is patience—you can’t walk away from the pot. Constant stirring releases the starch, creating a creamy texture that will bind the ball together. Once cooled, the rice is mixed with peas and cheese (typically Pecorino or Parmesan), then shaped into a ball around a core of ragu. The ragu itself is a slow-cooked ground beef sauce, simmered for hours with tomatoes and aromatics until it’s deeply savory. The ball is then breaded and fried at 350°F until golden brown. The science: the breadcrumb coating creates a barrier that traps steam, cooking the interior while the exterior crisps. The result is a texture gradient—crunchy outside, creamy inside, with a molten center.
For the lobster ravioli, the technique is all about the dough and the seal. Chris Borgatti’s recipe uses wheat flour, eggs, and water, kneaded until smooth and elastic. The gluten development is crucial: too little, and the dough tears; too much, and it becomes tough. The dough is rolled thin—almost translucent—so that the filling is the star. The filling is a blend of lobster meat, ricotta, eggs, and seasonings. The key is to avoid overmixing, which can make the filling pasty. The ravioli are formed in a machine that presses and seals them, but the principle is the same as hand-making: you want a thin border, no air bubbles, and a tight seal. When boiled, the pasta should be al dente—chewy but not hard. The sauce is a classic garlic cream: olive oil and butter, minced garlic, white wine to deglaze, heavy cream, Parmesan, lemon juice, and parsley. The lemon cuts the richness, balancing the sweet lobster.
Ingredients & Substitutions
For arancini, the core ingredients are arborio or carnaroli rice, which have high starch content for creaminess. If you can’t find these, sushi rice works in a pinch, though it’s stickier. The ragu can be made with ground beef, pork, or a mix; for a vegetarian version, use a lentil or mushroom ragù. Cheese is traditionally Pecorino Romano, but Parmesan or a dairy-free alternative like nutritional yeast can be used. For gluten-free arancini, substitute breadcrumbs with crushed gluten-free crackers or rice panko. The frying oil should be neutral with a high smoke point, like canola or peanut oil.
For lobster ravioli, the dough is simple: all-purpose flour (or “00” flour for extra tenderness), eggs, and a splash of water. For a gluten-free version, use a blend of rice flour and tapioca starch, but expect a more delicate dough. The filling: cooked lobster meat (frozen works, but fresh is best), ricotta (full-fat for creaminess), egg as a binder, and Parmesan. For a dairy-free option, use cashew ricotta and omit the cheese. The sauce can be made with olive oil instead of butter, and coconut cream instead of heavy cream (though it will add a slight sweetness). The lemon and garlic are non-negotiable for brightness.
Common Mistakes
When making arancini, the most common mistake is undercooking the rice. The rice must be fully cooked and creamy; otherwise, the balls will fall apart during frying. Another pitfall is overfilling with ragu—too much moisture can cause the arancini to burst. The solution: chill the rice thoroughly before shaping, and ensure the ragu is thick and not watery. Frying temperature is critical: oil too cold leads to greasy arancini; too hot burns the outside before the inside is warm. Use a thermometer and fry at 350°F.
For ravioli, the biggest issue is a tough dough. This happens when the dough is over-kneaded or too dry. The fix: add a teaspoon of water if the dough feels crumbly, and rest it for 30 minutes to relax the gluten. Another common mistake is not sealing the edges properly, leading to blowouts in the water. Press out all air pockets and crimp firmly with a fork. Lastly, don’t overcook the ravioli—fresh pasta cooks in 2-4 minutes. Overcooking makes it mushy. The sauce should be added gently to avoid breaking the delicate pasta.
Pro Tips
For arancini, Chef Joe’s secret is in the rice: he uses a blend of peas and cheese to add texture and flavor layers. A pro tip: after shaping, freeze the arancini for 15 minutes before frying—this helps them hold their shape. For the ragu, cook it a day ahead; the flavors deepen overnight. When frying, work in batches to avoid dropping the oil temperature. Serve with a side of marinara for dipping.
For ravioli, Chris Borgatti suggests using a pasta machine to get even thickness. If you don’t have one, a rolling pin works, but you’ll need patience. The pro move: add a pinch of nutmeg to the filling—it enhances the sweetness of the lobster. For the sauce, finish with a pat of cold butter off the heat to emulsify and add shine. Presentation: plate the ravioli in a single layer, spoon sauce over, and garnish with fresh parsley and lemon zest. The visual contrast of the golden pasta against the white sauce is stunning.
The Verdict
Is the extra cost of lobster ravioli worth it? Absolutely—if you’re after a refined, celebratory dish that showcases pristine ingredients and masterful technique. It’s a special-occasion meal that will impress dinner guests. The arancini, on the other hand, is a workhorse: affordable, filling, and deeply satisfying. It’s perfect for a cozy night in or a party snack. Both dishes require patience and skill, but the arancini is more forgiving for home cooks. The lobster ravioli is intermediate-level due to the dough. If you’re a content creator, these dishes offer a compelling narrative: the story of Italian immigration, the value of tradition, and the joy of handcrafted food. I’d recommend trying both—start with the arancini for a rewarding challenge, then graduate to ravioli when you’re ready to level up. The wow factor is undeniable.
