The Dish
Imagine biting into a banana split, but instead of cold ice cream and sweet syrup, your mouth is flooded with smoky, tender brisket, pulled pork, and a rib that stands in for the banana. This isn't a fever dream; it's the Barbecue Split from Porky's Pork Palace at the New York State Fair. The moment you slide a fork through layers of mashed potatoes, coleslaw, and that rich, dark meat, you understand why people line up for this $22 masterpiece. It's a dish that redefines dessert—or maybe it's not dessert at all. It's a statement.
This is the new frontier of state fair food: extreme, irreverent, and unapologetically indulgent. From deep-fried Pop-Tarts to bacon-wrapped Twix, vendors are pushing boundaries that would make your grandmother faint. But beneath the shock value lies real technique. The batter that coats a Nutter Butter cookie until it becomes a molten, creamy pillow. The smoking process that turns pork ribs into something you can pull apart with a fork. This isn't just gimmickry; it's culinary innovation born from decades of fair food evolution.
The Technique
The Barbecue Split starts with the meat, and that's where the magic begins. Pork ribs are seasoned with a barbecue rub and smoked for 12 hours at a low temperature—around 225°F (107°C)—until the collagen breaks down and the meat becomes fork-tender. The smoker used here can hold 1,500 pounds of meat and takes about a year to build. For the home cook, a standard backyard smoker or even a charcoal grill with indirect heat will work. The key is patience: low and slow allows the smoke to penetrate deeply, creating that signature bark and juicy interior.
Then comes the assembly. The banana split boat gets a layer of brisket, then pulled pork, then ribs placed on either side like banana halves. A "barbecue wash"—a thin, tangy sauce—is drizzled over everything. Mashed potatoes and coleslaw replace ice cream and whipped cream, and cherry tomatoes stand in for maraschino cherries. The final touch is more barbecue sauce. The technique here is about texture contrast: the creamy potatoes against the crunchy coleslaw, the tender meat against the crispy rib bark. It's a study in balance, even if the ingredients are extreme.
For the fried items, the batter is the hero. Jim, owner of Fried Specialties, has perfected a simple batter that creates a thin, crispy shell without becoming greasy. The batter likely contains flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and a liquid like buttermilk or beer. The carbonation in beer or the acid in buttermilk helps create a light, airy crust. The key temperature is 350°F (175°C)—hot enough to cook the batter quickly without burning, and to prevent the filling from absorbing too much oil. The Nutter Butter, for example, goes from a dry cookie to a molten, peanut-buttery delight because the heat melts the filling while the batter seals it in.
Ingredients & Substitutions
The Barbecue Split requires quality smoked meats. If you don't have a smoker, you can use store-bought smoked brisket and pulled pork from a barbecue joint. For the ribs, look for St. Louis-style spare ribs—they're meatier and more forgiving than baby backs. The barbecue wash can be any thin, vinegar-based sauce; mix apple cider vinegar with ketchup, brown sugar, and spices for a quick version. Mashed potatoes should be creamy but not too loose—add butter and cream, but avoid over-mashing to prevent gumminess.
For the fried items, the batter is easily adaptable. Use a gluten-free flour blend for a GF version, or almond flour mixed with cornstarch for a low-carb option. The Nutter Butter can be swapped for any peanut butter sandwich cookie, but avoid ones with cream filling that's too hard. For the Pop-Tarts, any flavor works, but avoid unfrosted ones—the frosting adds sweetness and helps the batter adhere. The bacon-wrapped Twix requires thin-cut bacon, which crisps faster than thick-cut. If you're vegan, try a plant-based cookie with dairy-free chocolate and coconut bacon (made from coconut flakes, soy sauce, and liquid smoke).
Common Mistakes
The biggest mistake when deep-frying is not controlling the oil temperature. If the oil is too cool, the batter absorbs oil and becomes greasy. If too hot, the outside burns before the inside warms. Use a thermometer and adjust the heat between batches. Another error is overcrowding the fryer—this drops the temperature and leads to soggy results. Fry in small batches, allowing the oil to recover between rounds.
For the Barbecue Split, home cooks often skip the resting step. After smoking, let the meat rest for at least 15 minutes before slicing. This allows the juices to redistribute, ensuring each bite is moist. Also, don't oversauce—the barbecue wash should complement, not drown, the meat. A light drizzle is enough.
When making the batter, avoid overmixing. Lumps are fine; overmixing develops gluten, which makes the batter tough. Let the batter rest for 10 minutes before using—this allows the flour to hydrate and the bubbles to settle, creating a more even coating.
Pro Tips
To get that perfect crunchy-yet-tender fried Pop-Tart, freeze the Pop-Tarts for 30 minutes before battering. This prevents the filling from melting too quickly, so you get a warm, gooey center rather than a runny mess. For the bacon-wrapped Twix, par-cook the bacon in a microwave for 30 seconds before wrapping. This renders some fat and ensures the bacon crisps up during the short frying time.
For the barbecue split, try adding a smoky element to the mashed potatoes: mix in smoked paprika or a few drops of liquid smoke. You can also swap the coleslaw for a spicy kimchi slaw for a Korean twist. The cherry tomato can be replaced with pickled cherry peppers for acidity and heat.
Presentation matters. Use a long, narrow boat dish for the split, and arrange the ribs so they curve outward like banana peels. Dust the fried items with powdered sugar immediately after frying—it sticks better when they're hot. Serve with a side of warm chocolate sauce or caramel for dipping.
The Verdict
Is the Barbecue Split worth the effort? Absolutely—if you have a smoker and a free weekend. It's a showstopper for a backyard barbecue or a Super Bowl party. The wow factor is off the charts, and the flavor balance is surprisingly sophisticated. The fried items are easier and faster, perfect for a fun night in. They're not health food, but as the vendor says, it's "fat-free grease"—okay, maybe not, but the joy is worth the indulgence.
Difficulty level: Intermediate for the fried items, advanced for the barbecue split. Time investment: 12 hours for smoking, 30 minutes for frying. But the payoff is a meal that will be talked about for years. These fair food innovations prove that creativity and technique can turn even the most absurd ideas into delicious reality.
