First Impressions
I still remember the first time I swiped a Marc Jacobs Highliner across my waterline. It was 2015, and I was covering New York Fashion Week for a major glossy. The pigment was so dense it felt like drawing with a melted crayon—smooth, black, and utterly unforgiving. That liner became my go-to for years, until the brand quietly shuttered its beauty division in 2021, leaving a cult following in mourning.
So when I heard Marc Jacobs Beauty was back, I felt a jolt of pure, nostalgic excitement. The announcement landed like a grenade in my Instagram DMs: new formulas, new packaging, and a promise to honor the original spirit while evolving for today's clean beauty standards. I pre-ordered the moment the site went live—two Highliners in "Blacquer" and "Brownie," plus the new Enamored Hi-Shine Lip Lacquer in "Sugar."
The package arrived in a matte black box, weighty and minimalist. The first thing I noticed was the scent: a faint, sophisticated vanilla that wasn't there before. The liner had a slightly different texture—less waxy, more creamy. I uncapped it, took a breath, and drew a line on my hand. It glided on like butter, but I immediately noticed it was less opaque than the original. That was my first hint: this was a new beast, not a carbon copy.
The Deep Dive
Let's break down what's actually changed. The Highliner Gel Eye Crayon, now called the "New Highliner," has been reformulated to be vegan and free of parabens, sulfates, and phthalates. The brand says it's now 100% plastic-free in packaging, using recycled aluminum and glass. The color range has been trimmed from 30 shades to 12 core shades, with a promise to expand based on demand.
On first application, the texture is noticeably softer. The original was a stiff, long-wearing gel that required a bit of pressure to deposit color. The new version is almost buttery—it melts on contact with skin. For a tightline or waterline, this is a dream. But for a bold, graphic wing? I found it smudged more easily during the first hour. The payoff is still impressive, but it's not the bulletproof liner I remember.
The Enamored Hi-Shine Lip Lacquer is a different story. The original was a thick, glassy gloss that felt like a liquid lipstick. The new formula is lighter, almost like a tinted lip oil with high shine. The shade "Sugar" is a sheer, warm pink that looks like a natural flush. It's comfortable, non-sticky, and smells like vanilla frosting. But if you're expecting the opaque, high-impact color of the original, you'll be disappointed. This is a gloss for the "clean girl" aesthetic—not the "full glam" crowd.
Who is this for? Honestly, it's for two groups: nostalgic fans who want a piece of beauty history, and new consumers looking for a sleek, eco-friendly luxury brand. The Highliner is best for everyday wear—work, brunch, a casual date. The lip lacquer is perfect for no-makeup makeup days. If you're a creator who loves a dramatic, editorial look, you might find the new formulas a bit too tame.
Real Results
I've been using the New Highliner in "Blacquer" for two weeks straight. Here's what I found: on my oily eyelids (I have combination skin), it lasts about 6-7 hours before starting to fade at the outer corners. That's decent, but the original held for 10-12 hours without a primer. On my waterline, it's a different story—it stays put for about 4 hours before migrating, which is average for a gel liner. I tested it on my friend with dry skin, and she got a full 8 hours with no smudging. So skin type matters here.
The lip lacquer, after a week of daily wear, is a solid 4/5. It's hydrating, never sticky, and leaves a subtle stain after the gloss fades. I wore it through a three-course dinner, and it survived the meal with only a slight fade at the center of my lips. Reapplication is a breeze—no mirror needed. But if you want a bold, opaque lip, this isn't it. It's a "your lips but better" product.
I also tested the liner on a friend with deeper skin tones (Fenty 430). On her, the "Brownie" shade looked almost black, which was stunning. The pigment is buildable, but it didn't offer the same one-swipe intensity as the original. For fair skin (Fenty 110), the same shade pulled warmer and more subtle. So the color payoff varies by skin tone—something to note for creators doing shade reviews.
The Honest Truth
Let's talk about what didn't work. First, the price. The Highliner is now $26, up from $24. The lip lacquer is $22. That's a premium for a brand that's essentially rebooting its identity. Is it worth it? For the packaging and eco-credentials, maybe. For the performance, it's a mixed bag.
Second, the shade range. Twelve shades for a liner is thin, especially when the original had 30. I miss the metallics and brights—the electric blue and emerald green that made Marc Jacobs fun. The new collection is safe: blacks, browns, a navy, a burgundy, and a few neutrals. It's elegant, but it lacks the daring spirit of the original.
Third, the formula change. The original Highliner was a cult product for a reason—it was bulletproof. The new version is more user-friendly, but it's also more fragile. If you're a creator who films all-day wear tests, you'll need to set it with a powder or primer. That's a step I never needed before.
Who should skip this? If you're a die-hard fan of the original, you might be disappointed. The new formulas are different, not better. If you're on a budget, there are cheaper options (NYX Epic Wear Liner is $12 and performs similarly). If you're looking for a bold, artistic liner, this might feel too subdued.
Pro Tips
Here's how to get the most out of these products. For the Highliner, always warm the tip with your body heat before application—hold it against your inner wrist for 10 seconds. This makes the formula glide even smoother and prevents tugging. For a waterproof finish, set it with a translucent powder using a tiny angled brush. I use the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, and it adds two hours of wear.
For the lip lacquer, layer it over a matching lip liner for more intensity. I like the Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat in "Pillow Talk" under "Sugar"—it gives a soft, defined edge without looking heavy. You can also mix it with a drop of foundation for a custom nude shade. That's a hack I learned from a makeup artist on set, and it works beautifully for video close-ups.
If you're creating content around this relaunch, focus on comparison videos—side-by-side with the original (if you have it) or with high-end competitors like Tom Ford or Charlotte Tilbury. Nostalgia is a powerful hook, especially for Millennial and Gen Z viewers who remember the original hype. Also, do a "wear test" video showing the product at 1 hour, 4 hours, and 8 hours. That's the content that gets saved and shared.
Final Verdict
Would I buy the New Highliner again? Yes, but only in "Blacquer" and for everyday use. It's a solid, workhorse liner that looks chic and feels modern. The lip lacquer? I'll finish the tube, but I won't repurchase—it's too sheer for my personal taste. But I know many people will love it for its comfort and clean ingredients.
This relaunch is for the creator who wants to talk about brand evolution, clean beauty, and the delicate balance between nostalgia and innovation. It's not a home run, but it's a confident single. Marc Jacobs Beauty is back, but it's not the same brand you fell in love with in 2015. And maybe that's okay—because beauty, like memory, is allowed to change.
