The Project
You’ve seen the videos: a homeowner with a rented chainsaw, a too-tall ladder, and a tree that’s way too close to the house. The saw screams, the tree leans… and then it hangs up in another tree, or worse, crashes through a window. DIY tree removal is one of those projects that looks simple in a 30-second clip but can go sideways in a heartbeat. Right now, it’s trending hard on YouTube because it combines high stakes, visible skill, and the universal appeal of watching someone try something they probably shouldn't. The problem is that professional tree removal can cost $500 to $2,000 or more, and many homeowners think, “How hard can it be to cut down a tree?” The answer: harder than it looks, and far more dangerous. But for a YouTube creator, that tension is pure gold.
This article isn’t about encouraging viewers to cut down their own trees. It’s about understanding why this topic is exploding in popularity and how you, as a creator, can produce content that is both engaging and responsible. Whether you’re a seasoned arborist or a DIY enthusiast who wants to document the process safely, there’s a huge audience waiting. The key is to focus on preparation, technique, and the dramatic moment of the fall—all while hammering home the safety message. If you can capture the thrill without the recklessness, you’ll have a video that people watch, share, and remember.
What You'll Need
Before you even think about starting the saw, you need the right gear. Let’s break it down, because using the wrong tool here is a recipe for a bad day. For the chainsaw, I recommend a 16- to 18-inch bar for most medium-sized trees—something like a Stihl MS 251 or a Husqvarna 450 Rancher. Budget around $400–$600 for a reliable saw. Don’t buy the cheapest one at the big-box store; a cheap saw that stalls mid-cut is dangerous. You’ll also need felling wedges (plastic, not metal—metal can spark and cause kickback), a felling rope (at least 50 feet of 1/2-inch static line), and a sledgehammer to drive the wedges. For safety, you absolutely need a full-face helmet with a mesh visor, chainsaw chaps (not jeans—they won’t stop a chain), steel-toed boots, and ear protection. Total cost for a beginner setup: around $800–$1,200 if you buy new, but you can rent a saw for $50–$80 a day.
For the video, you’ll want a camera with good stabilization—a GoPro on a tripod or a phone with a gimbal works fine—because the action is fast. Also, consider a second camera angle from a safe distance to capture the tree’s fall. A drone shot is incredible if you have one, but don’t fly it near the falling tree. The trick most pros won’t tell you: mark your escape route before you start cutting. Clear two paths at 45-degree angles away from the fall direction. That way, when the tree starts to go, you’re not tripping over branches.
Step-by-Step
Here’s the process for a safe, controlled felling, assuming the tree is in an open area with no power lines or structures nearby. If it’s near anything valuable, stop and call a pro. Step one: assess the lean. Walk around the tree and note which way it naturally leans. That’s your fall direction—don’t fight it. Step two: clear the area. Remove any obstacles, mark your escape routes, and ensure no people or pets are within two tree lengths. Step three: make the notch cut. Cut a notch on the side of the tree facing the fall direction. The notch should be about one-third the diameter of the tree, with a 70-degree top cut and a flat bottom cut. This creates a hinge that guides the tree. Step four: make the back cut. On the opposite side of the tree, cut about two inches above the bottom of the notch. Leave a hinge of wood about one-tenth the tree’s diameter—this controls the fall. As you cut, drive in a wedge to prevent the tree from pinching your saw. Step five: retreat. When the tree starts to crack, pull the saw out, turn it off, and move along your escape route. Watch the tree all the way down.
Here’s the trick most pros won’t tell you: never cut all the way through the back. The hinge is your safety net. If you cut through completely, you lose control of the direction, and the tree can twist or kick back. Also, if the tree has a heavy lean, use a rope tied high in the tree to pull it over after the back cut. A friend can pull the rope from a safe distance—just make sure they’re not in the fall zone. For a really tricky tree, consider a “bore cut” technique, where you cut from the center outward to release tension. That’s an advanced move, so practice on small trees first.
Safety First
Let’s be blunt: tree removal is one of the most dangerous DIY projects you can do. According to the CDC, tree felling accidents cause hundreds of deaths each year, many involving homeowners with chainsaws. The biggest hazard is a “barber chair,” where the tree splits upward from the back cut and kicks the saw back at you. This happens when the tree is under tension or when the back cut is too high. To prevent it, always use wedges and never cut faster than you can control. Another common mistake is cutting a tree that’s leaning against another tree—that’s a widowmaker waiting to happen. If the tree is hung up, do not climb it. Call a professional.
What NOT to do: don’t cut alone. Have a spotter who can call 911 if something goes wrong. Don’t cut in wet or windy conditions—wet wood is heavier and more unpredictable. Don’t use a ladder to cut branches overhead; use a pole saw or hire a climber. And never, ever try to cut a tree that’s near power lines. Even if you’re sure the line is dead, assume it’s live. When to call a professional: if the tree is over 30 feet tall, if it’s within 10 feet of a structure, if it has multiple trunks, or if you’re not 100% confident in your ability. The cost of a pro is nothing compared to the cost of an ER visit.
Troubleshooting
Even with careful planning, things can go wrong. The most common issue is the tree getting hung up in another tree. If that happens, don’t cut the supporting tree—that’s how people die. Instead, use a long rope and a vehicle (or a winch) to pull the tree free from a safe distance. If the tree starts to split while you’re cutting, stop immediately. A split can release stored energy and send wood flying. If the saw gets pinched, don’t yank it—shut it off, drive a wedge into the cut to widen it, and then remove the saw. If the tree falls the wrong direction, don’t try to stop it—just get clear. The ground absorbs the impact; you won’t.
Plan B: if the tree is too risky, consider hiring a professional for just the felling part and then doing the cleanup yourself. That’s a smart compromise that still gives you content. Another option is to use a “felling jack,” a hydraulic tool that lifts the tree off the stump and guides it. They’re expensive (around $300), but they add a layer of control. For creators, showing the troubleshooting process is gold—viewers love to see how you handle problems. Just be honest about the mistakes and what you learned.
The Result
When done right, a DIY tree removal project is deeply satisfying. You’ll have a clean stump, a pile of firewood, and a sense of accomplishment that comes from mastering a dangerous skill. For the video, the payoff is the slow-motion shot of the tree falling, the sound of the crash, and the transformation of the landscape. Expect the whole process—from prep to cleanup—to take a full day for a single medium tree. If you’re filming, add another hour for setting up shots. What would I do differently? I’d invest in a better rope and practice my notch cuts on smaller trees first. And I’d always, always have a first aid kit within arm’s reach.
Honest reflection: this isn’t a project for everyone. If you’re not comfortable with a chainsaw, or if the tree is near your house, hire a pro. Your life is worth more than the video views. But if you’re experienced, careful, and willing to learn, this is a project that will earn you respect from your audience and a great story to tell. Just don’t be the guy who ends up as a cautionary tale. Be the guy who shows others how to do it right.
