The Project
You’ve seen the van life videos, dreamed of the open road, and maybe even scrolled through listings for old cargo vans. But here’s the thing: buying a pre-built camper van can cost you $50,000 or more. What if you could take a beat-up 1990 Chevy G20 Conversion Van—the kind that smells like stale cigarettes and has questionable wiring—and turn it into a modern, practical, and affordable tiny home on wheels? That’s exactly what this build is about. I’m taking a $6,000 van with retro Wilderness door panels and a previous owner’s half-finished renovation and transforming it into a fully functional camper with solar power, a cedar ceiling, insulated walls, and all the comforts you need for life on the road.
This isn’t a quick weekend project. It’s a full restoration that took weeks of demolition, planning, and careful craftsmanship. But the payoff is huge: a custom van that fits your needs, costs a fraction of a factory build, and gives you the satisfaction of saying “I built this.” Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or a first-timer with a big dream, this guide will walk you through every step—from stripping the interior to installing solar panels and finishing the walls. Let’s get to work.
What You'll Need
Before you start, gather your materials and tools. You don’t need a professional workshop, but you do need the right stuff. Here’s the complete list:
**Materials:**
- 1990 Chevy G20 Conversion Van (or similar)
- Two 100W flexible solar panels (plus one existing rigid panel for 300W total)
- RV rooftop wire gland
- 1/2-inch plywood for strapping
- Foil bubble wrap insulation (large roll)
- 8-foot cedar fence boards (for ceiling)
- 6-inch pine tongue-and-groove boards (for walls)
- 2x8 lumber for wall ribs
- 1-inch foam board (for templates)
- Black wall paint
- Danish oil (for cedar)
- PL construction adhesive
- 1-inch and 1.5-inch brad nails
- 16-gauge automotive wire
- 4-inch DC pot lights
- Wire nuts
- Carpet tape and staples
- Black silicone caulk
- Mineral spirits
- Wood filler
- 120-grit sandpaper
**Tools:**
- Circular saw
- Jigsaw with fine-tooth blade
- Router with rabbeting bit
- Laser level (AliExpress or similar)
- Brad nailer
- Drill with screw bits
- Wire strippers
- Soldering iron (for MC4 connectors)
- Measuring tape
- Utility knife
- Safety glasses and gloves
**Budget:**
- Van: $6,000
- Solar panels and wiring: ~$300
- Lumber and insulation: ~$200
- Lighting and electrical: ~$100
- Adhesives and fasteners: ~$50
- Total (excluding van): ~$650
**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate to Advanced. This build requires basic carpentry, electrical wiring, and patience. If you’ve done a few DIY projects before, you can handle this.
Step-by-Step
**Step 1: Demolition and Clean Slate**
Start by stripping everything out. Remove the old walls, ceiling, insulation, and any wiring you don’t trust. The previous owner had done some work, but you never know what shortcuts they took. I found some “artistic liberties” that made me cringe—like wires taped to the ceiling instead of secured. Tear it all down until you’re left with bare metal and fiberglass. This is the most satisfying part. You’re creating a blank canvas. Clean the interior thoroughly, especially the roof where you’ll install solar panels.
**Step 2: Solar Panel Installation**
Before building anything, install your solar panels while the ceiling is still accessible. Clean two spots on the roof with mineral spirits. Apply a generous bead of black silicone around the entire back of each flexible panel, then press it firmly onto the roof. No screws needed—silicone holds them at highway speeds. For the wiring, drill a hole in the roof and install an RV rooftop wire gland. Cut the wire ends to pass through the gland, then seal everything with silicone. Solder MC4 connectors back onto the wires inside, then run extension cables to the back of the van. I had one existing rigid panel, so I wired all three in parallel for a total of 300W. Here’s the trick most pros won’t tell you: over-caulk everything on the roof. It doesn’t have to be pretty, but it has to be waterproof.
**Step 3: Ceiling Strapping and Insulation**
Cut 1/2-inch plywood into 4-inch-wide strips for strapping. Screw them into the wood structure inside the fiberglass top, being careful not to poke through the roof. In areas without wood, use PL construction adhesive to attach plywood blocks. Then, cover the entire ceiling with foil bubble wrap insulation. Use carpet tape to hold it temporarily, then staple it securely. This insulation creates a thermal barrier and reduces airflow—critical for keeping the van comfortable.
**Step 4: Cedar Shiplap Ceiling**
Sort through cedar fence boards at Home Depot and pick the straightest ones. Cut off the rounded factory edges with a circular saw. Use a router with a rabbeting bit to create a shiplap profile: a deep rabbet on one side and a shallow groove on the other. This allows the boards to overlap and hide the insulation. Paint both sides black, then sand with 120-grit. Install the boards one by one, using PL adhesive on the strapping and 1-inch brad nails to hold them. Use a laser level to ensure the grooves align perfectly from front to back. Before nailing the last boards, run 16-gauge wire for the pot lights. Mark the light locations, cut holes with a jigsaw, and leave excess wire for switches.
**Step 5: Wall Ribs and Insulation**
Cut foam board templates to match the van’s contoured walls. Trace each template onto 2x8 lumber and cut with a jigsaw. This is finicky—each rib took about an hour. Glue the ribs in place with PL construction adhesive, filling gaps between wood and steel. Cover any windows you don’t plan to use with black fabric from the inside. Then, insulate the walls with the same foil bubble wrap, stapling it to the ribs.
**Step 6: Pine Tongue-and-Groove Walls**
Start at the bottom and work your way up. Apply PL adhesive to each rib, then nail the pine boards in place with 1.5-inch brad nails. Measure and cut each board individually to fit around windows and curves. The tongue-and-groove design makes alignment easy. Work slowly—this is where patience pays off.
Safety First
Working on a van involves several hazards. Always wear safety glasses when cutting, sanding, or using adhesives. Use gloves when handling fiberglass insulation or silicone. When drilling into the roof, check for wires or structural supports underneath. Work in a well-ventilated area when using construction adhesive or paint—fumes can be strong. For electrical work, disconnect the battery before wiring anything. If you’re not comfortable with soldering or wiring, consult a professional. Solar panels can generate voltage even in low light, so cover them or disconnect during installation.
Troubleshooting
**Problem:** The cedar boards don’t align perfectly, leaving gaps.
**Solution:** I made this mistake on my first try. The boards aren’t perfectly straight, so a simple rabbet edge won’t work. Re-mill them with a deeper rabbet on one side and a groove on the other so they overlap. This hides gaps and creates a clean shiplap look.
**Problem:** The foil insulation shows through ceiling cracks.
**Solution:** If you see shiny bits after installation, you didn’t overlap the boards enough. Use black caulk to fill small gaps, or redo the section with properly milled boards.
**Problem:** Wall ribs don’t fit the van’s curves.
**Solution:** Take your time with foam templates. Cut them small and shave off bits until they match perfectly. Trace onto 2x8 lumber and cut with a jigsaw. Test-fit each rib before gluing.
The Result
After weeks of work, the van is transformed. The cedar ceiling gives it a warm, modern feel, and the pine walls make it feel like a real tiny home. The 300W solar system keeps the lights and fan running without shore power. The insulation keeps the interior comfortable even in extreme weather. Everything is solid—no rattles, no gaps, no shortcuts. If I had to do it again, I’d spend more time upfront perfecting the ceiling milling, but the final result is worth every hour. This van is now a home on wheels, ready for the open road. And the best part? Total cost for the build (excluding the van) was around $650. Compare that to a $50,000 factory camper, and you’ll see why DIY is the way to go.
