The Project
If you've ever had a piece of wood suddenly kick back at you on a table saw, you know that split-second of pure terror. Or maybe you've tried routing a narrow strip and watched it get yanked out of your hands. The problem is simple: most stock fences have a gap that allows small workpieces to slip into, or they don't provide enough lateral support. The result? Dangerous kickback, chipped edges, and wasted material.
This cool little device changes all of that. It's a dedicated push block and zero-clearance fence combo that turns your table saw or router table into a precision instrument for small stock. The design is dead simple — a sled-like base with a tall fence that has a replaceable sacrificial face. The key innovation is that the fence is adjustable for different blade or bit heights, and the base rides flush against your table's miter slot or fence rail. Once you set it up, you can process thin strips, small blocks, and even irregular shapes without fear of them getting launched across the shop.
Here's the transformation: you go from fighting the machine to guiding the material. Your hands stay well away from the blade, the workpiece is supported on three sides, and the zero-clearance face prevents tear-out. I built one after a close call with a 1/4-inch strip of walnut, and I haven't touched a standard push stick since. This is one of those "why didn't I build this years ago?" projects.
What You'll Need
You probably have most of this in your scrap bin. For the base, use 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch plywood — Baltic birch is ideal because it stays flat, but standard cabinet-grade plywood works fine. The fence is a piece of 3/4-inch MDF or plywood about 6 inches tall and long enough to extend past your table's fence rail. You'll also need a sacrificial face — I use 1/4-inch hardboard or Masonite, but even a piece of 1/8-inch ply will do.
For hardware, you need two T-track bolts or carriage bolts with T-nuts (1/4-inch-20 is standard), matching washers and wing nuts. A pair of 1-inch-long #8 wood screws for attaching the sacrificial face. And if you want to add a dust collection port, a 2-1/2-inch hose adapter and a hole saw of the same size.
Tools required: table saw (to cut the parts), drill with bits (1/4-inch, 1/8-inch), a square, clamps, and a router or jigsaw to cut the slot for the blade. Optional but helpful: a dado stack if you want to cut a groove for the T-track.
The total cost for new hardware is under $10. The wood is scrap. Time to build: about 30 minutes, plus 10 minutes to set up and dial in. This is a weekend afternoon project that will pay for itself in saved fingers and frustration.
Step-by-Step
Step 1: Cut your base to size. I use 8 inches wide by 12 inches long — long enough to span the distance from your table's fence to the blade, with a few inches of overhang for your hand. The width should be about 2 inches wider than your table's miter slot spacing.
Step 2: Cut the fence to the same length as the base, and 6 inches tall. Attach it to the base using glue and screws from underneath. Make sure it's perfectly square — use a machinist's square, not a speed square, because any error here will cause binding.
Step 3: Now the critical part — cutting the zero-clearance slot. Set your table saw blade to the height you'll be using (typically 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the material). Place the jig on the saw table with the fence against your saw's fence. Turn on the saw and slowly push the jig forward so the blade cuts through the base. This creates a perfect slot that matches your blade's kerf. If you're using a router table, do the same with the bit at full height.
Step 4: Install the sacrificial face. Cut a piece of hardboard to the same height as the fence but 1/4 inch shorter on each end. Screw it onto the fence using #8 wood screws, countersinking them. Now run the jig through the saw again — the blade will cut a slot in the hardboard, creating a zero-clearance fence face.
Here's the trick most pros won't tell you: make the sacrificial face slightly proud (about 1/32 inch) of the fence. This way, when you push the workpiece against it, the face flexes slightly and grips the material, preventing it from lifting. Also, drill a couple of 1/4-inch holes in the base for your fingers — it's more comfortable than gripping the bare plywood.
Step 5: Add the T-track bolts. If your table has a miter slot, install T-nuts in the base's bottom and use bolts to lock the jig in place. If you're using a router table with a fence, you can clamp the jig directly to the fence. For table saws, I prefer to use the miter slot because it allows the jig to slide freely while keeping the workpiece aligned.
Safety First
Before you start, here's what you need to know: this jig is designed for small stock only — pieces that are too narrow to safely push through with your hands. Never use it for large panels or heavy material; that's what your standard fence is for. The jig can tip if overloaded, which is worse than no jig at all.
Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Use a push stick for the final pass if your fingers come within 6 inches of the blade. And here's the most important rule: never remove the jig while the blade is spinning. Wait for it to come to a complete stop. I've seen guys yank the jig off and have the blade catch it, sending it flying.
One more thing: check the sacrificial face regularly. Once it gets chewed up (after about 50 cuts), replace it. A worn face can cause the workpiece to rock, which defeats the purpose. I keep a stack of pre-cut hardboard faces in my shop so I can swap them in 30 seconds.
Troubleshooting
If the workpiece binds or burns, your jig is probably not aligned with the blade. Check that the miter slot bolts are tight and that the fence is parallel to the blade. A simple test: make a cut on a scrap piece and measure the thickness of the cut. If it's thicker on one side, your fence is off.
Another common issue is the workpiece lifting during the cut. This happens when the sacrificial face isn't tall enough or when the material is very thin. Fix it by adding a second sacrificial face or by using a featherboard on top of the workpiece. I've also glued a strip of 80-grit sandpaper to the fence face — it provides grip without marring the wood.
What if you don't have T-track? No problem. You can cut a 1/4-inch groove in the base and use a regular bolt with a washer and nut from underneath. Or just clamp the jig to your table's fence using spring clamps. It won't be as precise, but it works for quick jobs.
The Result
After building this jig, the first thing I did was rip a bunch of 1/8-inch strips from a scrap of cherry. Normally, that's a sketchy operation that requires multiple passes and a lot of cussing. With the jig, it was one smooth pass — no binding, no kickback, and the edges were glass-smooth. I processed about 30 feet of thin stock in under 10 minutes, and my hands never came close to the blade.
The jig also shines on the router table. I use it for edge profiles on small parts like drawer fronts and box lids. The zero-clearance face prevents tear-out, and the tall fence keeps the workpiece vertical. I even use it for sanding — I'll attach a piece of sandpaper to the face and use it as a stationary sanding block.
If I were to redesign it, I'd add a dust port on the back of the fence. The slot creates a lot of fine dust that blows right into your face. A simple 2-1/2-inch hole with a shop vac attachment would make it perfect. Also, I'd make the base slightly longer — 14 inches instead of 12 — to provide more hand room.
But honestly, this is one of those projects that you'll wonder how you lived without. It takes half an hour, costs next to nothing, and makes your shop measurably safer. Build one. Your fingers will thank you.
