The Dish
There’s a moment when you first bite into a Gilda pincho — the briny pop of a Manzanilla olive, the sharp vinegary bite of a pickled Basque pepper, and the umami punch of a salt-cured anchovy all hit your tongue in a single, perfectly balanced wave. It’s a flavor that makes you reach for a sip of something cold and crisp, like a tinto de verano or, if you’re a tourist, a sangria. That moment is the essence of Spanish bar food: simple, bold, and meant to be shared.
The video takes us through a tasting and ranking of several iconic Spanish dishes, starting with this Basque Country classic. The Gilda isn’t just a snack; it’s a piece of culinary history. Named after Rita Hayworth’s character in the 1946 film *Gilda*, this skewered trio was invented in the 1930s in San Sebastián. It’s a pincho, the Basque take on tapas, designed to be eaten in one or two bites while standing at a bar. The beauty lies in its simplicity — just three ingredients that, together, create a symphony of salty, sour, and savory notes.
But the video doesn’t stop there. It moves on to paella, the iconic Valencian rice dish, and then to the cold soups that define Spanish summers: gazpacho and salmorejo. Each dish is rated on a scale of 1 to 10 by a panel of American tasters, and their reactions reveal not just personal preferences, but also the cultural nuances that make Spanish cuisine so fascinating. As a chef, I’m less interested in the scores and more in the techniques and traditions behind each dish. Let’s break down what makes these dishes work.
The Technique
The Gilda’s technique is deceptively simple: skewer an olive, a pickled pepper, and an anchovy on a toothpick. But the order matters. The olive provides a buttery, fatty base, the pepper adds acidity and a slight crunch, and the anchovy brings intense umami. The key is to use high-quality ingredients. Manzanilla olives are the standard — they’re small, green, and meaty. The pickled peppers should be Guindilla peppers from the Basque Country, which are mild and slightly sweet, not spicy. And the anchovies should be salt-cured, not oil-packed, for that concentrated, briny flavor.
Paella, on the other hand, is a test of patience and heat control. The dish originates from Valencia, where farmers would cook rice over an open wood fire in a wide, shallow pan called a *paella*. The technique that makes this work is the creation of the *socarrat* — the crispy, caramelized layer of rice at the bottom of the pan. This isn’t burnt rice; it’s a deliberate, golden-brown crust that adds texture and a toasty, nutty flavor. To achieve it, you must resist the urge to stir the rice after adding the broth. Let it cook undisturbed over medium-high heat for the last few minutes until you hear a faint crackling sound. That’s the sound of the socarrat forming.
The cold soups, gazpacho and salmorejo, rely on emulsification. Both start with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar, but the ratios differ. Gazpacho is thinner and brighter, with added cucumber and bell pepper, and is often served as a liquid salad. Salmorejo is thicker and creamier, thanks to a higher proportion of bread (usually stale bread) and more olive oil. The technique is to blend everything until silky smooth, then strain it through a fine-mesh sieve for that velvety texture. The key is to emulsify the olive oil slowly as you blend, like making mayonnaise, to create a stable, creamy emulsion.
Ingredients & Substitutions
For the Gilda, the most important ingredient is the anchovy. Look for salt-cured anchovies in jars or tins — they have a deeper flavor than oil-packed fillets. If you can’t find Guindilla peppers, you can substitute with pickled pepperoncini or even a mild pickled jalapeño (though that will add heat). Manzanilla olives are widely available, but if you’re in a pinch, any green olive will work, though the flavor will shift.
For paella, the rice is non-negotiable. Use a short-grain rice like Bomba or Calasparra, which absorb more liquid and hold their shape better than long-grain varieties. If you can’t find those, Arborio rice (risotto rice) is a decent substitute, though it will be creamier and less distinct. The socarrat is harder to achieve with Arborio because it releases more starch. For the protein, traditional Valencian paella uses chicken, rabbit, and green beans. Seafood paella uses shrimp, mussels, and squid. But here’s the rule: never use chorizo. As the video points out, authentic Spanish paella never contains chorizo because its strong, smoky flavor overpowers the delicate rice and saffron.
For gazpacho and salmorejo, the star is the tomato. Use the ripest, reddest tomatoes you can find — preferably Roma or San Marzano. In winter, canned whole San Marzano tomatoes are actually better than bland fresh ones. The bread in salmorejo should be stale and crusty, like a baguette or country loaf. For a gluten-free version, you can use gluten-free bread or omit it entirely and add a boiled potato for thickness. Both soups are naturally vegan if you skip the hard-boiled egg and ham garnish on salmorejo.
Common Mistakes
The most common mistake with the Gilda is using the wrong anchovy. Oil-packed anchovies are too mild and will get lost next to the olive and pepper. Salt-cured anchovies have a concentrated, almost funky flavor that holds its own. Another mistake is not balancing the acidity. If your pickled peppers are too sour, the Gilda will be harsh. Taste your peppers first — if they’re very acidic, rinse them lightly before skewering.
With paella, the biggest mistake is stirring. Once you add the broth, do not stir. Stirring releases starch and turns the rice into risotto — creamy and sticky, not fluffy and separate. The socarrat forms only when the rice is left undisturbed. Another mistake is using too much liquid. The ratio for paella is roughly 3 parts liquid to 1 part rice, but this varies by rice type. Bomba rice can absorb up to 4 parts liquid. Start with 3 and add more if needed. Finally, don’t overcrowd the pan. The rice should be in a single, even layer, no more than 1 inch thick. A crowded pan leads to uneven cooking and no socarrat.
For the cold soups, the most common mistake is not emulsifying the olive oil properly. If you add all the oil at once, the soup will separate and become greasy. Drizzle the oil in slowly while the blender is running on low. Another mistake is using underripe tomatoes. They lack sweetness and acidity, resulting in a flat, watery soup. Taste your tomatoes before blending — if they’re sour, add a pinch of sugar to balance. And don’t skip the straining step. It removes seeds and skins, giving the soup that silky, restaurant-quality texture.
Pro Tips
For the Gilda, let the skewered ingredients sit for 10 minutes before serving. This allows the flavors to meld slightly. Serve them with a chilled glass of Txakoli, a slightly sparkling Basque white wine, or a tinto de verano (red wine mixed with lemon soda). The acidity cuts through the saltiness beautifully.
For paella, the secret to a perfect socarrat is patience. After the rice has absorbed most of the liquid, increase the heat to medium-high and listen. When you hear a faint crackling, let it cook for another 30-60 seconds, then remove the pan from the heat. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let it rest for 5 minutes. This allows the socarrat to set without burning. Also, use a wide, shallow pan — the wider the better, because more surface area means more socarrat.
For the cold soups, a pro trick is to chill your blender jar and ingredients beforehand. This keeps the emulsion stable and the soup cold without diluting it with ice. For salmorejo, garnish with diced hard-boiled egg and crispy jamón serrano for texture contrast. For gazpacho, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a few fresh basil leaves elevate it from simple to sublime.
The Verdict
The Gilda is a must-try for anyone who loves bold, briny flavors. It’s incredibly easy to assemble — no cooking required — and makes a perfect appetizer or party snack. I’d rate it a 9 out of 10 for its simplicity and flavor impact, though it loses a point because it’s an acquired taste for those who don’t love anchovies.
Paella is a weekend project, not a weeknight dinner. It requires attention and a specific pan, but the payoff is spectacular. The socarrat alone is worth the effort. I’d give it a 9 as well, but only if you’re willing to commit to the technique. Gazpacho and salmorejo are summer staples that are easy to make and endlessly refreshing. Salmorejo, with its creamy texture and rich flavor, edges out gazpacho for me — it’s a 10. All of these dishes are worth trying, especially if you want to understand the depth and diversity of Spanish cuisine beyond the tourist traps.
